Delaware/New Jersey

Friday morning on the 29th we left Annapolis early in a light fog; by noon we were coming off the Chesapeake Bay and entering the Elk River. The Elk River turns into the C&D Canal on the North end of the Delmar peninsula. The C&D Canal, the third busiest canal in the world, was dug in the early 1800’s to provide a water route between the Chesapeake Bay and the Delaware Bay.
We spent the evening at dock in the Summit North Marina in Bear, DE.

Saturday morning we woke at 3:00 AM for a very early departure. The tidal current in the canal and northern part of the Delaware Bay runs up to 4 mph as the tide ebbs and floods, so we needed to time our departure with the falling tide. Traveling with the tide we move at 10 mph, against it we go 2 mph. On the days trip of 60 miles you can see why we departed when we did.

That evening we stayed in Cape May, NJ at the South Jersey Marina. Cape May is a delightful little resort/fishing village on the southern end of the Jersey shore.

The town was founded in the 1630’s, in the early 1800’s it became a resort area for visitors from Philadelphia, Baltimore and New York City. Today the entire town is on National Historic Register as a Historic Landmark City. The town also hosts a fleet of the best maintained shrimp boats we have seen, all brightly painted.
As we entered the harbor we viewed the graduation exercises for the U.S. Coast Guard Academy located in Cape May.

Sunday, the 31st, we left Cape May and traveled in the Atlantic Ocean up the New Jersey coast to Atlantic City. We anchored for the evening in a small basin just inside the Absecon Inlet. We will be travelling in the ocean for the entire trip up to the New York Harbor because our mast height prohibits us from using the N.J, intracoastal waterway.

Historical Annapolis!

Yesterday we spent a day on a wonderful walking tour of historic Annapolis, Maryland. These are just some of the highlights and photos of what we enjoyed:

The State House (Where George Washington resigned his commission in 1783 and is the location where the Treaty of Paris was ratified by Congress in 1784 ending the Revolutionary War). It is the oldest State capitol in continuous legislative use.

St. Mary’s Church (Built in 1860 and designed by architect Louis L. Long)

suThe Charles Carroll of Carrollton Home (Built in 1749). Charles held the distinction of being the only Roman Catholic and the longest living signer of the Declaration of Independence.

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The Hammond-Harwood House (Built in 1774 and designed by architect William Buckland)

United States Naval Academy (Established in 1845 is home to 4,000 midshipmen during their 4 years of training to become officers in the Navy or Marine Corps). The Chapel and Museum housing the best collection of ship models from 17^th century to modern times were awesome.

Saint John’s College (Chartered in 1784 and today is best known for its curriculum based on the Great Books program)

The Green House (Built in 1740, Jonas Green was public printer and Publisher of the Maryland Gazette)

We sure enjoyed the history of Annapolis!

Chesapeake Bay

Sunday, 24th : We left the free dock early after a brief visit with an elderly Japanese couple on the boat next to us. They were heading west, eventually to the Panama Canal then returning home across the Pacific. Somehow our six thousand mile loop doesn’t look so big anymore. That morning we motored down the Elizabeth River through Norfolk VA past the many boatyards and out into the Chesapeake Bay. That evening we arrived at the Deltaville Marina on the west side of the Bay in Deltaville VA.
Monday, 25th: We left Deltaville traveling north up the Chesapeake; we crossed the Potomac River and crossed into Maryland. That evening we anchored in the rain on the Patuxent River near Solomons Island.
Tuesday, 26th: The day started out like so many previous days; weighed anchor at 06:30 and had the sails up by 07:00. The forecast was for east winds 10-15 knots, perfect for that day’s trip. Surprise, by 08:00 the wind was a steady 40 knots with gusts up to 50! The wind and rain made for the most exhilarating day on the water that I have ever experienced. After what seemed like 40 hours we finished the 60 mile trip and arrived in the harbor at Annapolis, MD, actually it was only around 1:00 in the afternoon. The boat was such a mess that we knew we would need a couple of days here to put things back together. Wind and waves like we had just come through make things below deck look like they went through the washing machine spin cycle.It worked out good because the weather forecast for the next couple of days called for rain and scattered thunderstorms and we sure didn’t have a stomach for anymore of that for awhile. That evening after 2 Motrin and 2 Margarita's life was good again.
Wednesday we straightened up the boat and shopped for groceries. Thursday we had some time to enjoy this great maritime harbor town. Annapolis claims to be the sailing capital of America and it would be hard to argue that title. Between all the fabulous old buildings, the many boats, the great seafood restaurants and the Naval Academy there was plenty to see and do.

Deliverance From The Great Dismal Swamp!

Thursday we departed Oriental, NC early for a long travel day. It turned out to be a 75 mile trip one of longest on the Loop. A beautiful day spent motor sailing most of the day across the Sound and rivers. We found a beautiful anchorage on the Alligator River off Tuckahoe Point.

Friday, we made it to the Great Dismal Swamp after a great morning motor sailing on the Alligator River and across the Albemarle Sound. We had to dodge a lot of crab pots (was like a mine field at times) but a beautiful sunny day on the water. Arrived at Elizabeth City and the Pasquotank River the entrance to the Dismal Swamp. We wanted to top off our diesel fuel and Lambs Marina was the only place we could find it. We should have known we were in trouble when Billy Bob had difficulty telling port from starboard. When we tried reaching them on the VHF radio we found out their radio was not working, but we went there anyway, down a very narrow channel with minimum depth. We tied up at the only dock deep enough for us and had to wait for the fuel truck to come to our dock. When we saw the fuel truck (an old 1970 Ford F600) that wouldn’t start (because it was out of fuel!) we started to really get worried. After Billy Bob spilled diesel fuel all over the hose and himself, we decided to use our diesel jugs to top off and depart ASAP. Interesting but not one of our best fuel stops just part of the adventure! We did find a great anchorage behind Goat Island; it was so quiet and peaceful.

Today we crossed through the Great Dismal Swamp Canal and into Virginia. It is the oldest operating man made waterway in the US, first used in 1805 to transport flat bottomed vessels with grain and farm animals the 22 mile length. Our trip started early in dark flat water the appeared as a mirror reflecting the trees from each bank. The canal in narrow, only 60 feet wide in some sections with over hanging branches made it interesting. We made 3 stops, 2 locks and a stop at the NC Visitors Center dock. After we left the 2^nd lock we had an engine problem. The engine was running hot due to not enough water coming through the intake. Had to stop and emergency anchor and Captain Brad had to go down into the dark water (zero visibility) with his pony SCUBA tank and clean the intake port under the boat. It was almost like the Great Dismal Swamp was saying “Not so fast Northern Light, I am not finished with you yet”. We did make it passed the Swamp and stayed at a dock at the Chesapeake Yacht Boat Yard near Norfolk, VA.

We are all looking forward to tomorrow when we will enter the Chesapeake Bay!

Camp LeJeune Lagoon

Friday, May 15th we left Wrightsville Beach and traveled 42 miles down the ICW to a lagoon inside the Camp Le Jeune Marine military base. The Marines allow boaters to stay in the lagoon but we are not allowed to leave the boat or go ashore. After observing their training maneuvers we decided to follow their rules. We got a front row seat to training exercises that included troops deploying from vertical takeoff fixed wing aircraft. When we arrived in the lagoon there was one other boat at anchor, two hours later there were 17. The site is about the only spot available to anchor on the waterway from Wrightsville Beach to Beaufort.

Saturday we motor sailed the 40 miles to Beaufort N.C... We had gone to Beaufort several years ago by car and enjoyed it very much, so we were anxious to see it again. We spent a couple days taking in the sights at this historic seaport. They do a great job of retaining and commemorating their history in the area. The town is full of beautifully restored homes, churches and store fronts. Susan and I spent an hour in one of the old church burying grounds with grave sites dating back to the early 1700’s.

Monday afternoon Susan and I rented a car and drove to the airport in Raleigh Durham. Susan flew home Tuesday morning to help care for her mother. Jan had heart bypass surgery last Saturday and her recovery has been slow. I’m sure Sue will provide invaluable support to her parents as they work through this difficult time. We’re all praying for you Jan. I’ll miss my first mate immensely; I hope we are together again soon.

Tuesday morning I returned to the boat and Linda, Jay and I left the Beaufort Docks around noon. After a wet breezy ride we arrived at the Oriental Harbor Marina in Oriental, NC late that afternoon. Wednesday we stayed at the dock waiting for the rain and high winds to pass. We plan to get an early start tomorrow morning and start to make up for some lost time.

Myrtle Beach Bike Week!

Monday, while waiting for Kurt the mechanic to arrive we had an opportunity to explore Georgetown a little more and enjoy a leisurely walk down quiet streets and historic homes. When the mechanic arrived at Northern Light he had his work cut out for him; after taking apart half the engine he was able to find the cause of our engine problem and made the necessary repairs. It was a disconnected wire (due to engine vibration) to the solenoid of the starter, hidden by the alternator.

Thankfully, we were back on the ICW and happy to be moving again. We had a beautiful trip on the Waccamaw River through abandoned rice fields and large plantations and antebellum homes.

Arrived at our anchorage a little later than usual where we found several other boats. We named it Jay’s Oxbow since it was unnamed. We anchored near a couple (Ed & Linda) from Daytona Beach aboard “Sea Smoke” a New England style Lobster boat. Our anchorage was near Bucksport, SC named after Captain Henry Buck a famous Lumber Baron.

Tuesday we departed our anchorage early for a short trip (25 miles) to Myrtle Beach. A great stop for all of us, just happen to be Motorcycle Bike Week for the boys and a great shopping opportunities for the girls right at our location at the Barefoot Landing Marina. Myrtle Beach got its name for the waxy leaves of the native Myrtle bushes in the area.

Wednesday was another early departure for a longer trip up the ICW into North Carolina. After a quick stop for fuel we traveled through some interesting areas. First, we negotiated the “Rock Pile” a very narrow part of the canal with large rock formations on either side. Then we got to a very unique pontoon bridge where the center span actually floats away to allow passage through. We had a short wait with several other boats since it only opens on the hour.

We got to the North Carolina Border about 10am and enjoyed the sights of sea birds, turtles and dolphins, especially at our great anchorage near Cape Fear, Dutchman’s Creek where we could see the tall (169 feet) Cape Fear Inlet Light. It was an interesting day with a lot of narrows, strong tidal currents, breezy and scenic nature and wildlife to keep us entertained.

Today we crossed the Cape Fear River on the way to Wrightsville Beach at the Seapath Yacht Club. Made very good time motor sailing and got to our dock just before the rains came. We hope to go outside (Atlantic Ocean) and do some sailing tomorrow if the wind and weather cooperate.

It is great to be back aboard Northern Light, thanks so much to our dear friends for the wonderful adventure!

Brokedown in Georgetown

We spent four days in Charleston working on the boat and sightseeing while we waited for a guest and our new crew. Fred Cook joined us for dinner while he was in town on business and Linda and Jay rejoined us for the trip. Charleston with its old homes and beautiful gardens is one of the prettiest cities I have seen so we all enjoyed the opportunity to walk the town.

We spent Friday night at anchor in Winyah Bay. It was our intention to leave this morning and go out Winyah Inlet into the ocean and sail up to Cape Fear, NC ., however our engine had other plans. The engine failed to start this morning so it was time to develop alternate plans. Somehow we would have to get into Georgetown SC the nearest city about ten miles away for repairs. Luckily the wind and tidal currents where both in our favor and we were able to sail into the Georgetown Landing Marina. As we approached the marina we tied the dingy to the boat and used it as our auxiliary engine to get to the dock.
Susan and Linda got an unexpected Mothers Day dinner at the Goat Island Grill in downtown Georgetown. Happy Mothers Day Therese and Jan ! Georgetown is the third oldest city in South Carolina. The town was surrounded by prosperous rice plantations prior to the Civil War that all went out of business with the abolition of slavery. Fortunately the beautiful homes that were built by the wealthy plantation owners in town are still maintained today.

Hopefully we will be able to get an engine mechanic tomorrow and get back on our way, if not we will likely become quite the authorities on Georgetown history.

Low Country

This past week was one of transition. We traveled from Florida through Georgia into South Carolina. We watched the waterway's shoreline change from the grand homes back to palm trees and mangroves then to salt marshes and live oak trees covered with Spanish moss.

Sunday, April 26: We left St. Augustine early and headed out the inlet to travel in the Atlantic Ocean for part of the day, we re-entered the ICW via the St. Johns Inlet at Jacksonville, FL. The day ended at an anchorage in Nassau Sound at the south end of Amelia Island.

Monday, April 27: We made the short trip to Fernandina Beach Marina on the north end of Amelia Island. We spent the afternoon enjoying the attractions in historic downtown Fernandina Beach.
Tuesday, April 28: We left the dock early and shortly after crossed the St. Mary’s River into Georgia. We arrived mid afternoon at the docks at Jekyll Island. We enjoyed cocktails that evening with Mary & Andy aboard their motor vessel Good News and Brad & Patty, m/v Salvage Crew. They are two other looper couples we have met along the way. We first saw “Good News” when we were in the rivers back in September. They are also now on their way back home. The friendly interesting people you meet along the way continue to be the highlight if the trip.

Wednesday, April 29: Traveled to another anchorage in the Back River near Doboy Sound.

Thursday, April 30: Left early for a 10 hour ride in the Atlantic Ocean. The wind and seas were ideal and we made around 60 miles to the Wassaw Sound and the Wilmington River. The river leads to Savannah however we stopped before that at the town of Thunderbolt GA. When we arrived at the dock we were again greeted by the crews of Good News and Salvage Crew. Sharing hors d’oeurves and cocktails with them that evening was the perfect way to end a long day on the water.

Friday, May 1: We left the Thunderbolt Marina at 10:00 and shortly thereafter passed the Bonaventure Cemetery. The cemetery was featured in the movie “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil”. Around 11:00 we crossed the Savannah River and entered South Carolina, we spent the evening at the dock at the Hilton Head Marina.

Saturday, May 2: We traveled to Beaufort S.C. hoping to get a dock at the downtown city marina. On the way we passed the well known Marine Corps Recriut Depot at Parris Island. This is where all male Marine recruits east of the Mississippi train. It's also where all female recuits train.We didn’t see much going on they must have had the weekend off. When we arrived at Beaufort we were surprised to find the place was full. It turned out this was the weekend for their big “Taste of Beaufort “festival. We anchored near the marina and took our dingy into town to enjoy the music and food at the festival. Now we know were all the Marine recruits were. Later that evening we had dinner with Molly and Gary, a couple from North Carolina who were returning from Key West on their sailboat. They both retired from their jobs in January and took off on a boat. Sounds familiar!

Sunday, May 3 : After church service at the local Episcopal Church and a breakfast out, we spent the afternoon traveling to an anchor site on the South Edisto River about half way to Charleston.